THE BEST BAKLAVA IN MELBOURNE

The best baklava in Melbourne. That is a serious, serious thing. You don't go throwing titles like that around lightly.

 Which is why Jacques Abd El Nour and Hazim Hazim from Abla's Patisserie were so delighted to win first and second place in the inagurual Baklava Bake Off (Professional Category) held last month in Federation Square. The Baklava Bake Off was organised by the Australian Multicultural Foundation and judged by Greg Malouf and PM24's Head Pastry Chef Cécile Veyrat. The competition asked members of the community to help find "Victoria’s best baklava, as a way of celebrating our community’s diversity and love of a common sweet". 

Popping in a for a chat with Michael at Abla's Patisserie, he tells me that "We use premium nuts and that makes all the difference". The pastries are made by hand, layers of filo pastry draped over the gigantic metal trays. Then they are filled with cashews, hazelnuts or pistachios and then soaked in rosewater and orange blossom syrup.

At Abla's, people come in for a fresh lemon, ginger and mint tea. Michael says their coffee "has a subtle chocolate note. Everyone has their favourite pastry and they enjoy being able to choose a Bird's Nest or Lady Finger to enjoy with a drink." Only Jonesy's Milk is used for coffees, continuing a theme of fresh, local products.

These Abla's Patisserie gift boxes are popular for entertaining and as a small, thoughtful present when dining in someone else's home. It is not an unusual sight to see someone dashing in from Commercial Road, just before the Market closes on Saturday, to grab a selection to take out that night instead of the usual bottle of wine.

So whether a sticky sweet is your thing or strong black coffee or a tower of Turkish delight, come by Abla's and choose your own prize-winning treat from the trays!

Abla's Patisserie
Shop 815
Prahran Market
163 Commercial Road
03 9827 5881
Link

Mother's Day and Market Days

It's May and that means Mother's Day at the Market. If you were to believe the avalance of catalogues that have been shoved through my letterbox since April, Mother's Day is a riot of commercialism, and if your mater does not receive at least one pair of slippers, a chunky bestselling novel AND a miniature vacuum cleaning device of some sort, you have failed and are that ingrate, the thankless child (cue reading from King Lear, serpent's tooth etc, etc).

As always, here at the Market, I believe in giving appropriately. And from the heart (I will get to duty gifts later). Let's not think about what you'd like your mother to use - Hallo Mother, here is a copy of Momofuku and I'll be around for some pork buns with pickled cucumber in 24 hours - but what she would actually, truly like to receive.

Samantha Robinson cups at Market Lane

Is she a coffee fanatic? How about a membership to Market Lane's Coffee Club or one of these beautiful Samantha Robinson cups?

If she's a gardener, then stop by Prahran Garden Centre and peruse the many options - orchids, perennials, small decorative trees and herb planters. Donnally's Party Supplies are stocked with cards and naturally our three florists will be bursting to capacity with beautiful bunches of flowers.

A giftbox of delicious goodies from the Brownie Bar or Abla's Patisserie may be just the thing to fill your mother's face with delight. Or one of our cheeseboards covered with a selection of ripe, rich cheeses. And for the adventurous, spice-loving parent, perhaps a beautiful tin of Sohan Koosha, Iranian toffee, from 53 Degrees East.

The Essential Ingredient is a wonderland of gifts for the foodie mother - from KitchenAid mixers and copper roasting pans to signed cookbooks and salt bricks.

Accompany this gift with a box of macarons from Health Bowl Cafe

For the homemade gift, check out Tad Lombardo's easy chocolate recipes for Chocolate Dipped Candied Orange Peel, Fudge or Sage Truffles. You can also swing by and choose your own selection box from Tad's stall at the Artisan Market on Saturday or Heritage Chocolates.

A surefire recomendation for anyone who loves to cook and shop locally is Kathy Tsaple's book Sweet Greek, available from Kathy's own hands, after Wednesday's launch. It is a truly lovely volume, entwining food and family together in a way just perfect for Mother's Day.

But if you are going through the motions in order to avoid a barrage of phone calls and a pointed reminder in the annual Christmas letter, let me suggest a Prahran Market Gift Voucher or a Hidden Gems Market Tour. For $50, your mother and a friend will spend an hour or so guided through the Market, learning its history, meeting some of our Traders, tasting, talking, trying unusual and interesting produce. A gift that brings your mother closer to food, cooking and us. Now you can't get much better than that, can you?

Our Sweet Greek

Kathy Tsaples is the proprietor of Sweet Greek in the Deli Arcade at the Market. Sweet Greek offers homemade classic pastries and ready-to-eat Greek cuisine. Everything is made freshly on the premises with produce from our Fruit and Vegetable traders. On weekends there are special offerings such as Loukoumades (honey doughnuts) or Avgolemono (traditional egg-lemon chicken soup).

Kathy learned to cook at home from her mother but didn't start her career in food for many years, heading into financial services instead. "I spent my days doing market research and analysis. When my sons were studying for VCE I took some time off to be at home with them. It was during this time that I pursued my passion for cooking and perfecting my Greek recipes."

"Not satisfied with just the home cooking, I approached a friend who ran a very succesful gourmet deli. I worked there for 7 years and became manager of the store. There I learnt about retailing, food products, suppliers and cheese management skills.

I always held the dream that one day I would have my own store where I could display and sell the food that is so close to my heart and my heritage."
 

Kathy was the manager of Sweet Greek when it opened at the Market in January 2011 and later became the owner. She says "This is the ideal home for myself and my food. I love to make delicious Greek sweets and savoury dishes such as mousaka, pastitsio and Greek soups."

Traditional Kataifi pastries at Sweet Greek

Kathy also started importing products directly from Greece that she considered vital for any pantry.

"I wanted to create a store that became a necessary stopoff for customers. I want to awake the senses and make people feel good, through food. We have a core menu but naturally, changes occur to reflect the seasons."

Spinach and feta pastries at Sweet Greek

Another of Kathy's dreams came true recently, when she held in her hands a copy of her first book Sweet Greek: Simple Food & Sumptuous Feasts. Her book is a beautiful collection of Kathy's favourite recipes, bound together with the story of her life, her family and challenges, including overcoming a diagnosis of stage 3 breast cancer during Easter 2009. 

The book is published by Melbourne Books, with photographs that will have you desperate to try these dishes. You can either follow Kathy's recipes and tips or pop in and taste her cooking for yourself. Kathy was interviewed by Rafael Epstein on 774 ABC Melbourne recently and this link provides details of four of her Easter recipes, including Slow Roasted Shoulder of Lamb, Cauliflower Salad, Dolmades and Red Dyed Easter Eggs.

Kathy Tsaples of Sweet Greek with her namesake book

From Thursday to Sunday this week, Sweet Greek will host a feast of traditional Greek Easter delicacies, including Mairitsa (Greek Easter Lamb Soup) and Thiples, which are a pastry made for Greek festive days. There will be Tsoureki (Greek Easter bread) and dyes and stickers for decorating white eggs.

These Australian-made candles celebrate Greek Easter at Sweet Greek

And the most beautiful candles. "We light the candles at  midnight mass on Saturday, it's a symbol that Christ has now risen and we carry that flame home to light our own candles."

Kathy's book and store, are in a sense, her own flame. She shares her warmth and her story, through her food and her words. Sweet Greek will be released on 8 May 2013 and will be available at all good bookstores and of course, Sweet Greek itself.

Sweet Greek
Shop 702
Prahran Market
163 Commercial Road
South Yarra VIC 3141
Phone: 03 9826 0608
Website link 

ANZAC Biscuits and Bully Beef

This April 25 will honour the 97th commemoration of ANZAC Day in Melbourne. It was first officially marked on the anniversary of the Australian and New Zealand soldiers landing at Gallipoli. It is one of the few public holidays in Australia when everything slows down and most places (including the Market) close as a sign of respect.

10th Battalion during the Somme advance, February 1917

 

It is also a day to think about the meals of our first Australian soldiers. Because of the fighting conditions and the lack of refrigeration, few of their rations contained fresh produce or meat:

So what did they eat? Bully beef (tinned corned beef), rice, jam, cocoa, tea, some bread and above all hard tack fed the Australian soldiers at Gallipoli. Hard tack, also known as "ANZAC Wafer", or "ANZAC Tile", has a very long shelf life, unlike bread. Hard tack or biscuits continued to be eaten during the Second World War. The original biscuits were made by Arnott's                                             

                                                                                 Australian War Memorial

Apart from as a scholarly experiment, I do not advise eating hard tack. The Australian War Memorial provides the Arnott's recipe here but also warns: 

Hard tack is really hard - there are many stories of soldiers breaking their teeth on them, so be careful!

A more appetizing historical bake are ANZAC biscuits. These were created as a nutritious oaty snack that did not require eggs and could last for months during the shipping process. The word "ANZAC" is protected by Commonwealth legislation and commercial products using the word must obtain the approval of the Minister for Veterans’ Affairs. ANZAC biscuits however, fall into their own category, with the Department stating:

It should be noted that approvals for the word 'Anzac' to be used on biscuit products have been given provided that the product generally conforms to the traditional recipe and shape, and is not used in association with the word 'cookies', with its non-Australian overtones. For instance, an application for Anzac biscuits dipped in chocolate would not be approved as they would not conform with the traditional recipe.

Phillippa's Bakery and Provisions' ANZAC biscuits can be found at Delicatess and Pete 'n Rosie's Deli. And coeliacs don't have to miss out, we've got them at the Gluten Free Providore too. ANZAC biscuits are very simple to make and children often enjoy it, catching the drips of golden syrup as they fall off the spoon.

ANZAC Biscuit card from The Essential Ingredient

Corned beef is also still found on many Australian tables, whether slapped between the layers of a Reuben sandwich or presented as the traditional Irish corned beef with cabbage. You can buy cooked corned beef from Pete 'n Rosie's Deli or stop by J & L Meats for a lovely piece of silverside and get it simmering with onion, celery and carrot - creating a delicious smell and a hearty meal on a cold April day. And the leftovers, diced and fried with onion and mashed potato make a comforting corned beef hash for breakfast the next day. 

So whether you're at the Dawn Service at the Shrine of Remembrance, watching the ANZAC Day Veteran's March or even the football match, think of our diggers' food and like them, tuck in.

Photograph by Charles Meeks

The Prahran Market will be closed on Thursday 25 April 2013 and will reopen on Friday 26 April at 7am.

Please note that service and life members of the RSL may collect Prahran Market bags containing a shopping, coffee and parking voucher from the Market Office upon presentation of their membership card until 26 April 2013.

April Fool!

Huzzah! Yes, that day of year has rolled around again, when tricksters see just how far they can spin a yarn and many of the rest of us roll our eyes and think "When will it be noon so that this nonsense stops?".

But strolling around the Fruit & Vegetable Hall can give you an unnerving sense of April Fool. Even if Michael Mow, Potato Man, the unlikely person doing the pranking.

Because, these days, things aren't what they used to be. Yet sometimes, they are what they used to be, we've just forgotten what to expect. And smell. And taste.

Startled by purple and green cauliflower?

Orange cauliflowers have supposedly 25 times the levels of beta carotene (Vitamin A) as white cauliflower. The purple one gets its hue from anthocyanin, which is the same antioxidant in red wine and red cabbage. If nothing else, these unusually coloured brassicas encourage curiousity and tasting from the disbelieving (children in particular). Serve them simply, raw or lightly steamed with just a hint of butter.

Walking past Damian Pike's stall the other day, I picked up some vibrant orange tomatoes. They were tiny, but the flavour was intense and they were a bright pop of colour in an otherwise ordinary salad. A "taste bomb" indeed.

Been fooled by a fruit recently?

Kiwiberries appeared at Reliable Fruit & Vegies last year and popped up all around the Market this summer. Market shoppers were seen peering at them, these round green baby kiwis in the midst of punnets of blueberries and raspberries. What exactly was going on here? These kiwiberries have a "fuzz-free" skin and are able to be eaten whole, skin and all.

And for other miniature items that can deceive the eye but not the tastebuds, you can't go past the display of birds eye chilies at Lee's Asian Grocery or Pino's Fine Produce. So innocent, so beautiful, so utterly utterly deadly. The unaware may chomp down on one whole, only to find themselves fleeing for a glass of milk or handful of palm sugar. There's a reason why renowned Thai expert David Thompson refers to them as "scuds". Treat them with respect, people.

Running my hands through a box full of fresh green olives down at F & J Fruiterers the other day, I couldn't help thinking it was the perfect camouflage for edibility. Have you tried eating an olive straight from the tree? It is frankly disgusting. But someone, sometime 6000 years ago figured out that you could cure olives, transform them with many changes of water and a touch of salt into something quite delightful.

Photo courtesy of Ed Kwon

And for that most magic of foods in disguise, I can't go past the marrow. Who would think, between those rough hunks of bone lies such a deeply delicious, rich and decadent feast? Long before Fergus Henderson made Roast Marrow with Parsley Salad his signature dish at St John, this was a hidden delight, a cook's feast, something to be eaten with the fingers while the fancier cuts were carried out to the dining room. Nutrient dense and full of the most primal flavour imaginable. Stop by one of our butchers and pick up some broad bones to roast at home. 

Let's face it, you're a fool if you don't.

Easter Hunting at the Market

You come here every week for warm, witty ponderings on the nature of food and cooking, peeking behind the curtain at the Market and our traders. Well, there is none of that this week! Instead, a whirlwind tour of all the delightful Easter treats we have to offer. There will be none of ye standard Lindt bunnies and the like (although we sell those too), but rather the unique and unusual offerings just here, just for you.

So let the Easter hunt begin!

Hot Cross Brownies available at the Brownie Bar - Julie's latest creation for the chocolate lover.

Divine artisan gingerbread biscuits for Easter from Vicki's Bickies at Pete 'n Rosie's Deli.

Hot Cross Bun Gelato dreamed up by Andrew at Fritz Gelato. This one is strictly seasonal!

Hard to find nut free eggs at Heritage Chocolates.

At Sweet Greek, Kathy's stocked egg dyes and stickers. Michael at Whisked recommends using "white" chicken eggs for dying and has them specially for this time of year. You can also find bunny ears, toy eggs and Easter bubble blowing kits for the chocolate-intolerant at Eggs Plus.

Café-Tasse is one of the more interesting Belgian chocolate houses and Jasper Coffee has some of their delightful Victorian-inspired chocolate egg boxes.

These Kennedy & Wilson Easter eggs are made in the Yarra Valley and prized amongst the chocolate-bean-set. (Although a hardcore cook might prefer the stunner of a copper bowl they're displayed in at the Essential Ingredient. Don't say I didn't warn you!)

 

 Traditional Italian Easter cake at Cleo's Deli, (similar to pandoro) called "Colomba". This means dove and is often baked in the shape of a dove for the Easter period. Some versions are also topped with pearl sugar and almonds.

Ripe the Organic Grocer has these gorgeous Fabergé type eggs containing organic dairy-free gluten-free champagne chocolate truffles. They are not cheap but they are simply lovely to behold.

And do we have hot cross buns! You can barely move around the Market without finding another variation of these popular fruity buns. Noisette will do a roaring trade in their tasty buns on Thursday and Saturday. You can also pick up Phillippa's buns at Pete n Rosie's Deli and Dench ones at Market Lane, as well as gluten free hot cross buns at the Gluten Free Providore. And Chaso's Gourmet Deli has been selling the Potts' family hot cross buns by the crateful, with their appealing glazed goodness.

 Oh and we do sell chocolate bunnies. Just in case you were wondering .... !

Wishing a safe and lovely Easter time to all our Market friends and traders!

Market Trading Hours during Easter

Good Friday: Closed
Easter Saturday: Open 7am - 5pm
Easter Sunday: Closed
Easter Monday: Closed

Melbourne Food and Wine Festival 2013

March is Festival Month in Melbourne, there's no denying it. And apart from my obvious affinity for all things delicious, I have a special place in my heart for the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival because their headquarters are here, yes RIGHT HERE AT THE MARKET.

If you look up as you walk towards Market Lane, you might even spot the Festival staff on the balcony, making the decisions that shape the events this city enjoys so much. One particular employee has been known to occasionally accidentally dampen passerbys when watering the Festival herb garden!
  

If you think this means I get inside knowledge, think again. Everyone at the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival is sworn to secrecy over next year's theme and no amount of bribery will cause them to spill the goods. Humph. We wait (impatiently).

 There are more events than any one foodlover could possibly attend, but I particularly enjoyed two this year. One, our collabaration with Napoleone and Co Cider and Walter Trupp. Set up on the Market floor was our very own Market of Eden, hay bales and apple trees surrounding a hessian-clad table dotted with chilli plants.

Chef Walter Trupp designed and cooked four courses to complement different apple and pear ciders created by the team at Napoleone and Co. It was an enjoyable and unique experience and you can read about it in detail at The Chronicles of Ms I-Hua and MEL: HOT OR NOT.

The second was the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival Langham Chef Masterclass over the weekend of 9 - 10 March. Packing demonstrations and discussions from chefs, winemakers and critics over a weekend led to a fabulous couple of days filled with new tastes, knowledge and ideas. So buzzing that I couldn't fall asleep for five hours on the Saturday night! Fortunately, thanks to the inhouse Festival coffee pop up, I managed to be bright(ish) and ready for the Bertrand Grebaut session on time on Sunday morning.

Matt Preston tries Magnus Nilsson's burned cream sauce

 A mixture of international stars and beloved locals, the Masterclass proved thought-provoking. The theme of the Festival this year is Earth, a subject dear to the hearts of many of our Traders, who directly see the impact of farming practices over the years on the produce they receive week in, week out.
 

Note Vegemite amongst the selection of ingredients!

And amidst all the dazzling tastes the food of Karen Martini stood out. A regular here at the Market, her techniques were not as startling as some nor did her ingredient list included edible ants or grits but it was food that I loved to eat and it was food that I will cook over and over again for my family. Her dish of kingfish with labne, nuts, watercress and pomegranate is already bookmarked to be shared over a Sunday lunch.

That's what the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival is about for me. Discovering new producers, chefs and techniques. Tasting dishes that I know I'll never even attempt to recreate, wines that will never sit in my cellar (note, dirty cupboard under the stairs). Setting my mind ablaze to the point where I can't sleep and at the end, coming home. With a full stomach, some recipe notes and eyes to the future of food in a city I love.